Last updated on September 25th, 2026 at 04:26 pm
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In this travel guide for a 10-day Southern Portugal road trip, we will drive through medieval villages, vast olive groves and expansive vineyards, and past glittering, uncrowded beaches.
In this Portugal travel guide you’ll find tips for renting a car in Portugal, avoiding the crowds, and discovering some of Portugal’s most delicious cuisine.
Portugal is a place I have wanted to visit for a long time, and honestly, my main motivation was to hike the Fisherman’s Trail (after completing the life-changing Camino Frances) and eat my bodyweight in tinned fish. I do really love Sardines.
We had originally planned to travel to Portugal in June 2026, but because we were having such an incredible time in Indonesia, we ended up delaying and actually reaching Portugal in July, which is just way too hot to hike the Fisherman’s Trail.
Thankfully, we squeezed in there just before the schools broke up (if I can give you one piece of advice, it’s to NEVER go to the European holiday destinations of Portugal, Spain, Greece, etc during the Summer months – it is SO overcrowded).
With hotter weather and a bit less time, we decided Southern Portugal was best experienced on a road trip, and we were right!
So here is our 10-day Southern Portugal road trip itinerary, starting and finishing in Lisbon, with where we ate, things we did, and how we managed driving in Portugal (spoiler – not very easily!)
CONTENTS
Southern Portugal Road Trip Itinerary Map
Is it Easy to Drive in Portugal? (& tips on renting a car)
I have to be honest, driving in Portugal is not as straightforward as I anticipated. We used Google Maps for navigation, and we found it didn’t completely match up with the actual road layout on many occasions, so we definitely took a few wrong turns.
We found it most difficult trying to head South from Lisbon, but once we reached the quieter roads of Alentejo it was much less stressful.
They also drive on the right (opposite to the UK), which is another challenge in itself. Having a confident driver and another passenger prepared to help with navigation is essential.
We actually got a flat tyre about 20 minutes after we set off, so we had to call our rental company to send roadside assistance, and a taxi for us to get back to HQ. After all the faff, it was another 3 hours before we managed to get on the road again, which really wasn’t a great start to our 10-day road trip around Portugal.
Thankfully, we had taken bumper-to-bumper insurance, so even though we had to pay for all of this on the spot, we were reimbursed for it when we got back to the UK.
Porto Covo was my favourite stop on our 10-day Portugal road trip
Renting a Car in Portugal
We rented a car from Zest, which is a UK third-party car rental service; the on-the-ground Portuguese company was Record Go, 10 mins from the Lisbon Airport.
We paid 160 Euros for 10 days’ car rental including full insurance and an additional driver, which is a great deal. While Zest were great, the Record Go staff were so rude, so I would not recommend using them. You can actually find even cheaper deals on Discover Cars, so it’s definitely worth shopping around.
Speaking of insurance, for this trip’s travel insurance we used SafetyWing, as we have been doing for two years now. Their service is always excellent, and the policies are great value; I deffo recommend.
We rented a tiny, fuel-efficient car – so the total we paid for petrol for this 10-day Portugal road trip was €120.
Day 1: Starting Your Trip in Lisbon
We didn’t spend any time in Lisbon when we first arrived, but instead chose to save it for the end of our trip and head straight into Alentejo, a region of Portugal known for vast, rolling plains, uncrowded beaches and hearty, authentic cuisine.
Days 1 & 2: Exploring the beaches and cliffs of Porto Covo
Where to Stay
BUDGET – Ahoy Hostel
LUX – Monte de Bemposta
Porto Covo is a village in Alentejo that marks the beginning of the Fishermen’s Trail, and it sits about 2 hours south of Lisbon.
The first half of the drive is quite dull, not helped by our stressful breakdown and the confusing road layouts; but the second half of the drive is much prettier.
Porto Covo has some beautiful hidden coves as well as expansive beaches ideal for swimming
Nice stops between Lisbon and Porto Covo:
- Melides: Cute bohemian village that feels very local; stop at Anguilla Surf Cafe for a coffee and cake, which faces the square and is filled with locals socialising and enjoying the sunshine and slow pace of life.
- Black Pig Distillery: Super lovely! Visit for a gin tasting or grab a drink and hang with the pigs and donkeys.
- Cute fruit stands as you get closer to Porto Covo with picnic tables. We bought a fresh baguette and tinned fish from Lidl (so cheap) and made sandwiches and brought some fresh cherries and peaches from a farm shop for dessert, yum!
Porto Covo is a beautiful village! This was actually my favourite stop on our entire 10-day road trip through Portugal.
- Eat Dinner at Ze Ignacio; it gets busy, so you’ll want to go when they’re open
- Grab breakfast the following day at Padaria Bakery. They will sell out of everything apart from bread in the first few hours. The Pastel de Natal here are the best we had in Portugal.
The best thing to do in Porto Covo is to hike a little bit of the Fisherman’s Trail, and heading north offers the best views both ways. Along the way, pick your favourite beach, then on the return stop there for a swim and chill!
The beaches of Porto Covo and the rest of the Alentejo outshine those in the Algarve area a hundred times over. Not only are they more beautiful, but they are practically empty, even in summer. We LOVED it here.
Days 3 & 4 Surf and Sunsets in Sagres (Algarve)
Where to Stay
BUDGET – Tonel Apartments
MID – Lemon Tree Surf House
LUX – Memmo Baleeira
Sagres is a 2-hour drive south from Porto Covo, and the village of Aljezur is a cute place to stop for coffee. The second part of the drive is very beautiful; having never been to Portugal before, it was sort of giving me boho Mexico vibes.
Sagres is a very pretty surf town in the Algarve
Sagres seems to have escaped Algarve mania because it’s just far enough away from the airport.
- Head to A Sereia for lunch. If you do one thing in Sagres, make sure it’s this. It’s a casual Portuguese restaurant above the fish market, and the service and seafood experience are the best I have ever known. It’s SO GOOD. The pecebes are a must-try; I know they look gross, but if you don’t trust me, trust Anthony Bourdain; they are delicious! We followed that with a whole Turbot; starters, mains and drinks were 80 euros total – such good value.
- Head to Bakery Pao Quente for breakfast. Cash only (there are no ATM’s nearby)
Joe with our whole Turbot from A Sereia in Sagres
Pecebes (Goose-Neck Barnacles) look kinda gross, but they are delicious!
What to do in Sagres depends on the time of year you visit, but it is best known for surfing, and some of the best is at Tonel Beach.
In July, the waves are quite mellow, and having just been spoilt by a couple of incredible weeks surfing in Nias, we decided to give it a pass and go swimming at Mareta Beach instead, as well as hike a little bit of the Sagres to Salema Walk (part of the Fisherman’s Trail).
If you do any type of hiking in Southern Portugal in July, you’re going to want to be finished by 10am, as it’s too hot beyond that point.
Day 5 Algarve away from the crowds in Silves (Algarve)
Where to Stay
BUDGET – Casa da Pega (sleep under the stars)
LUX – Casa Riad Yasmin
Casa de Pega in Silves, a bed under the stars!
This is where the Algarve shows us why it is not for us.
Silves, a village 30 minutes in from the coast, was a tactical pick, as I had read that during the summer months the Algarve beaches closer to Faro (airport) would be jam-packed.
Luckily, Silves was far enough from the ocean that it felt very off the tourist trail.
For dinner in Silves, head to Recanto dos Mouros. We tried the traditional lamb stew with soaked bread and a wild boar dish; they were both exceptional, and we ate al fresco with nice views of the castle.
For our activity the following morning, we wanted to do a coastal walk from Praia de Marina, which is supposedly one of the prettiest beaches in all of Europe.
We arrived there nice and early at 8am to beat the heat, and the (very rude) police were blocking the road to the beach; apparently they do that in summer when the car park is full, otherwise the road becomes chaos.
They shooed us away with no explanation, and we parked at nearby Benagil, known for kayaking tours to the caves, and walked to Praia de Marinha instead.
It was only 30 minutes each way in the hot, hot sun, but we couldn’t cool down with a swim as we had planned because the beach was full of sargassum. Instead, we went back to Benagil for a dip and the beach was rammed with kayakers; every inch of sand was covered with plebs in life jackets.
This times one thousand were the actual amount of Kayakers at Benagil that morning
It was an eye-opening experience, so after rinsing off we decided to get the hell out of dodge. I don’t think I’ll ever go back to the beaches of Algarve (except Sagres) after seeing how crowded and chaotic they were.
The town of Guia, 20 minutes up the road, is known for having the best Piri-Piri chicken in all of Portugal (this is heavily debated). We went to one of the more famous spots – Restaurant O Ribeirinho for a quick lunch before hitting the road. Salty, crispy chicken heals many wounds.
Day 6: The Medieval Village of Monsaraz (Alentejo)
Where to Stay
BUDGET – Casa Pinto
ULTRA-LUX – São Lourenço do Barrocal (just outside of the village itself on a gorgeous estate)
The drive from Silves to Monsaraz was the longest on this 10-day Southern Portugal road trip itinerary, and it’s a pretty nice drive through olive oil and wine country. Monsaraz is a beautiful village on the Spanish border and definitely worth the trip.
It is a remarkably well-preserved fortified medieval village, with cobblestone streets and white-washed buildings, that was reclaimed from Moorish rule during the Reconquista in the 13th century with the aid of the Knights Templar!
The walls of Monsaraz village are fun to explore!
There are lots of dining options in Monsaraz, but if you want a view of the sunset (believe me, you do), then you’ll need to book ahead. Xares faces west; we went there for aperitifs, but they didn’t have any space for us for dinner.
We ate instead at Taverna Os Templários, and tried an incredible dogfish soup and pork cheeks with pumpkin. Afterwards, we found a spot on the exterior walls of the village around 9pm and watched the magnificent sunset.
Monsaraz is a beautiful medieval village on the Spanish border
The views around Monsaraz are spectacular!
TIPS FOR DINING IN PORTUGAL
The snack at the beginning are not free! If you eat it, you pay for it. ALSO… go slow! Service in Portugal is never rushed, and the bill won’t come unless you request it, and nobody is rushing to turn your table. If you push for faster service, you may come across as rude.
Day 7 Culinary Journeys in Évora (Alentejo)
Where to Stay
BUDGET – T’Inaćia Guesthouse
LUX – CICIOSO Boutique Hotel
Only a one-hour drive from Monsaraz, Évora is one of Alentejo’s most iconic cities. When we went, it was so, so hot and practically impossible to do anything between noon and 5pm.
If you like a day filled with activities, head to the markets in the morning, and then hit the churches and the iconic bone chapel in the middle of the day so that you can hide in the shade! There are also some incredible tours in and around Évora worth checking out.
In the evening, you simply MUST eat at Taberna Típica Quarta-feira.
This was a very special dining experience, with no menu, as the chef sends what they want; it’s a lot of food, and it’s all typical Alentejo cuisine.
Don’t worry, this isn’t some wallet-busting fine dining experience; it was €130 euros for two, including a bottle and a half of wine. One of the best dining experiences of my life (You’ll need to book ahead).
This was our most memorable meal in Portugal!
Days 8-10: Experience Lisbon (with side trips to Ericeira & Sintra)
Where to Stay
BUDGET – Ambiente Hostel
LUX – The Verse
I have to be honest, Lisbon was very hit and miss for me.
We stayed in the neighbourhood of Arroios, then in a different place in Graca. We were after something not too touristy but still close enough to be able to walk to the main sights. They were both lovely neighbourhoods, but the anti-tourist sentiment in Graca was very off-putting. Almost every other building has a ‘Tourists Out’ and ‘Graca for Locals’ banner hanging from it, and despite everyone being friendly, we felt quite uncomfortable.
Truthfully, I had no idea that Lisbon was almost as popular as Barcelona, and that they are seeing all the negative effects of overtourism. I can definitely see the appeal of Lisbon, but I am not really interested in going somewhere I’m not welcome. Lisbon was a far cry from the wonderful feeling we had about Alentejo.
Despite feeling a bit uneasy, we still had a nice time, I just would not suggest staying in Graca. I would recommend locating yourself in either Arroios or Principe Real.
DEFINITELY eat at the tinned fish bar of Sol e Pesca; this was a highlight for me.
Other Things to Do in Lisbon
- Explore the historic neighbourhood of Alfama and catch some Fado, a traditional style of expressive and melancholic Portuguese music
- Head to Belem and see the Jeronimo Monastery, and have the OG Pastel de Nata
- Take the iconic vintage Tram 28 up the hill (expect to queue). This is not only a tourist attraction, but also a way for local people to commute, which I believe is a contentious issue in Lisbon.
- Visit the Time Out food market and walk along the promenade (this was way too crowded for me)
- Get Your Guide has heaps of tours and excursions for Lisbon, so check them out!
Tram 28 in Lisbon is both a tourist attraction and a way for local people to commute
Top Tips for Tourist Hotspots in Lisbon
PICKPOCKETING
Tourist hotspots, especially Tram 28, are rife with pickpockets who dress up as tourists. Keep a tight hold of your belongings and don't put anything in your pockets.
DROPPED PHONE SCAM
A common scam is someone leaving a 'lost' phone or wallet on a park bench or ATM shelf, and when you, the helpful tourist, picks it up, you'll be followed to a quiet area, confronted, and robbed. If you see a wallet or phone laying around just don't pick it up.
We witnessed both of these situations: pickpockets dressed as tourists on Tram 28, and the ‘lost phone’ outside Pasteis de Belem. Luckily, as experienced travellers, we cottoned on to both of these situations quickly and were not robbed.
Side Trips from Lisbon
Ericeira
Ericeira is around 45 minutes drive from Lisbon, and it is a fishing village with a vibrant surf community. Even if you don’t surf, it’s a really nice spot to take a walk, have lunch, and do some shopping in the markets.
Ericeira is a cute surf town and a nice day trip from Lisbon
Sintra
Sintra is one of the most popular spots in Portugal (which is why we didn’t go) – but if you want to see this iconic fairytale town, you can easily do so as a day trip from Lisbon, but you’ll need to take the train or book a tour (best option) due to driving restrictions.
My Thoughts on my Portuguese Road Trip and Things I would do Differently
- Alentejo was easily my favourite part of this entire road trip. We visited in July, and it didn’t feel crowded at all; locals are very friendly, and the landscape is pretty. The food is hearty and generous, and this felt like authentic Portugal. I would go back to Alentejo in a heartbeat
- The beaches of Alentejo outshine those I saw in the Algarve a hundredfold, and they are uncrowded but still lifeguarded
- I would have loved to go to the beaches of Arrabida, in the National Park just south of Lisbon, but they close the roads in the summer months to avoid congestion, so to reach there you would need to get lengthy public transport
- Both encounters I had with Portuguese police were very unpleasant; steer well clear.
- I did like Lisbon, but it is SO touristy, almost on the level of Barcelona, which I found quite off-putting, as many of the locals seem to have tourist fatigue and I didn’t feel very welcome. For that reason, I probably wouldn’t return, definitely not in summer anyway- even though the food is fabulous.
- This may sound kind of weird, but the whole of the Algarve stinks. Like it really stinks of a very strong Jasmine scent, which Joe didn’t even notice but I really struggled with!
Overall, Portugal is an incredible country, for food, wine, beaches, affordability (relative to the UK), nice people, and a more laid-back approach to life.
I LOVED the Alentejo, and if I were to do this road trip again, I would:
- Skip the Algarve
- Only do one full-on day in Lisbon, and then high-tail it out of there and head north to see the Silver Coast
- All while avoiding the months of June, July and August
Portugal was incredible, but there are some things I would do differently next time
Thank you for reading my post on a 10-day Southern Portugal Road Trip!
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Happy Travels! xx
