Kerala Guide: The Ultimate Manual for Independent Travellers

About Kerala

Kerala is on India’s southwestern tip, in a region known as the Malabar Peninsula.

The official language is Malayalam, and not many people speak Hindi (the language most widely spoken in India) – although it’s not difficult to find someone who speaks English. Along that same vein, Kerala is different from the rest of India in many ways…

They have the first ever democratically elected communist government (way back in 1957), and it is not unusual to see posters of Che Guevara and Krishna side-by-side. They also enjoy semi-autonomy from the central government of India, and something you may notice straight away is that beef is commonly eaten, whereas in the rest of India (with the exception of Goa and Sikkim) it is illegal to consume the mother cow.

Kerala, or Keralites, as her people are known, are multifaith and have a large Christian population, as this area was settled by the Portuguese (like Goa), and they brought their Jesus-loving ways with them.

Kerala has a 98% literacy rate and tops every social development list when compared to other Indian states. With this, and even though there is a lot of prosperity in Kerala, the people have been historically looked down upon by the northerners due to the darkness of their skin (India, like much of Asia, is obsessed with skin paleness).

Kerala frequently tops ‘Best Of’ lists, and it was once named as one of National Geographic’s ’10 Paradises on Earth.’ It really is a place of beauty and charm, but as with everywhere, there is some room for improvement (more on that later).

When people picture Kerala in their mind’s eye, they may imagine sprawling tea plantations and glittering backwaters, Chinese fishing nets, white and gold lungis, coconut trees, and a tiger or two. Here’s how to experience all of that and some of the lesser-known treats Kerala has in store.

I Dream of Mangoes Malarikkal Kerala — The pink lilies of Kerala

Best Time to Visit Kerala

In some parts of the world, if you visit off-season, you can still enjoy the place, albeit with not-as-good weather, but with the perks of lower prices and fewer people. This is not the case for Kerala, as the weather is SO extreme that visiting at the wrong time of year could ruin your experience.

India’s main Southwest monsoon moves up the country, beginning in Kerala sometime around May (monsoons are unpredictable; sometimes it’s earlier, or later). The heaviest rains are normally in June, July and August, and things are expected to start drying up towards the end of September.

India’s second little monsoon comes from the Northwest and lands in Kerala around mid-October and lasts around one month, although it is characterised by mostly short downpours in the evening and is nowhere near as disruptive as the main monsoon.

Before the monsoon comes around, the heat builds in Kerala to a point where you feel like you can’t move or breathe. With 100% humidity, the air is thick and wet. The months of April and May can be unbearable, and even with three fans pointing at your face, you still can’t do much. Yes, you could get AC (there will be power cuts), but stepping outside after being in a chilly ice box feels like a punch in the gut. It may sound like I am being dramatic, but I am really not.

If I were visiting Kerala to explore the state, I would choose to visit from September – March (the peak/busiest months being December and January).

Kerala wild elephant — A wild Ellie in Kerala

How to Get to Kerala

Kerala is served by four international airports (in order from north to South):

Kannur
Calicut (Kozhikode)
Cochin (Kochi) (not to be confused with Japan’s Kochi Airport)
Trivandrum (Thiruvananthapuram)

Cochin Airport is the most popular and accessible to fly into, and it was also the first airport in the world to be powered 100% by solar energy!

Kerala is connected by domestic flight to airports all over India, or if you’d rather come in by land, you have the option for a train or bus too. Train is my preferred mode of transport in India; it’s cheap, comfortable and a great adventure! Here’s everything you need to know to buy a train ticket and take the train in India as a tourist.

The south of India is a breeze compared to the rest, and I have never been harassed in Kerala. People are genuine, welcoming, and helpful. That being said, airport taxi drivers worldwide are a different breed of people, so I would suggest having your guesthouse/hotel send someone to pick you up when you first arrive in Kerala. Nobody wants to haggle and fight as soon as they’ve got off a plane.

Some cities in Kerala have Uber, and just for a rough idea of the price, when I get picked up by a rickshaw driver from Cochin Airport and go to my regular haunt of Cherai Beach – I pay 1000rs (£9) for the 45-minute journey. (YES, Kerala is a bit more expensive than the rest of India.)

I Dream of Mangoes at Varkala Beach — Varkala Beach

Getting Around in Kerala

Hire a Moped (My Preference)

Driving in India may seem daunting, but actually, it is easier than it looks. They drive on the left, the same as the UK, and generally speaking, bigger vehicles get right of way. There are traffic wardens controlling the flow of traffic at busy intersections, and for the rest, if you keep your wits about you and move with the flow of cars and bikes, it is not that hard to drive in Kerala.

I normally rent a 125cc moped for 400 rupees (£4) per day and scoot about. In Kerala, moped drivers must wear helmets (this is not the case in all of India; each state has different restrictions.) Petrol pumps are still manned, and speed limits, although not obvious, do exist. Here is a list of all Kerala upper-speed limits.

Train

With the exception of scooting around Kerala, my favourite way to get around India is by train. I have written a detailed guide on everything you need to know to take the train in India here – but generally, interstate trains book up well in advance, and tickets for local trains can be purchased on the day of travel.

Bus

If you are travelling to Kerala on a budget and you don’t want to drive, you can fill in the gaps the trains can’t reach with public buses, provided by the Kerala State Road Transport Corporation. Sadly, you can’t book directly with them or their official partner redBus with many foreign bank cards, although I have used Revolut successfully.

Alternatively, you can go to the bus station directly and buy your ticket. State buses are fun, sometimes, but not comfortable and do not have air conditioning. If you are after something a bit more luxurious with AC and possibly a bed, you’ll need to book with a private bus company. You can do this in person, with a travel agent, through your hotel, redBus, or 12GoAsia.

12GoAsia is the only one to accept most foreign cards (not counting redBus accepting Revolut), and they charge a pretty big commission for the privilege.

Private Driver

You can flag down empty Autos (rickshaws/tuk-tuks) to drive shorter distances, and the price is in the region of 15rs per km in Kerala. If you are going out of town, you are expected to cover the driver’s return journey too (which makes it 30rs per km).

You can also hire a driver for the whole day or multiple days if public transport isn’t your thing. This can, again, be an Auto (3,500 INR per day) or a car with AC (5,000 INR per day).

Boat

There are various ferry services throughout Kerala that charge very little to take you on scenic journeys from A to B. e.g. the ferry from Vypin Island to Fort Kochi and the 8-hour tourist ferry from Alleppey to Kollam.

If you want to make your independent travel in Kerala part of a wider South India itinerary, check out my guide – The Best One-Month Itinerary for South India.

Packing Essentials for Kerala

You can get most travel essentials for Kerala when you’re out there from affordable, well-equipped pharmacies and grocery stores. My full backpacking packing list is here – but these are a few items that I would not travel to Kerala without:

Scrubba – An awesome ‘washing-machine bag’ so I can handwash my own clothes while travelling, paired with this clothesline and laundry soap. (It only weighs 150g!)
Kula Cloth – This is an amazing product that you can use to dry your bits after a wee! Many toilets do not have tissue or bins, which is where this antimicrobial reusable cloth comes in.
Head Torch – You will use this more than you ever think… There will be plenty of outdoor loos, power cuts and poorly lit streets and a head torch comes in so handy!Odomos/DEET
Long, loose-fitting clothing
Mineral Sunscreen

FOR TRAVEL INSURANCE for India, I have started using SafetyWing, as they let me open a policy partway through my travels, and they are affordable. They do a 4-week rolling one for nomads, and it has been just great so far. I could not recommend them enough.

What to Wear in Kerala

This is probably my most commonly asked question about travel to India: What should female travellers wear?

Traditionally in India, women’s clothing covers the legs, cleavage, and shoulders, but having your midriff exposed is no big deal. That being said, in the bigger, more modern cities, the middle/upper-class Indian millennial/Gen Z girls nowadays often wear shorts and crop tops, and you’ll find people in bikinis on the beaches of Kerala and Goa without a thought.

In villages or at sites of pilgrimage (where people travel to from villages), if you wear shorts, people will stare at you. And I am talking 20 lads surrounding you and basically eating you alive and staring at you. They may have never seen a female leg before, apart from their mum’s, and you may as well be doing a porno for them right there.

I wore shorts in Hampi, and I experienced this first-hand; it was very uncomfortable. Nowadays, unless I am at the beach, I tend to just stick to long skirts or combats, but I don’t think too much about the top half. T-shirts and vest tops do not draw much attention.

I would never suggest telling a woman what to wear, but if something were to ever happen, the first question all the men would ask is “What was she wearing?” Sick, isn’t it? So if you would rather not be stared at, do as they do: wear bottoms that go past the knee and a loose-fitting top.

I have written a full article on experiencing India as a female traveller, which answers most questions about safety and extra precautions that can be taken. Check out the guide: Is India Safe for Female Travellers?

48 Hours of Serenity: How to Visit Munroe Island, Kerala — Exploring the backwaters of Munroe Island, Kerala

Places to Visit and Things to Do in Kerala

The most popular places to visit in Kerala:

Fort Kochi
Munnar
Alappuzha (Alleppey) Backwaters
Varkala Cliffs
Kovalam Beach

Kappad Beach Kerala — Kappad Beach is one of only 18 Blue Flag Beaches in India

Some more off-the-beaten-path places to visit in Kerala:

Kappad Beach, Kozhikode
Meppadi, Wayanad
Parambikulam Tiger Reserve
Anamudi Hills
Gavi & Periyar National Park
Vagamon
Poovar Island

Kerala Wayanad Sunset — Wayanad is a beautiful region of Kerala

Kerala’s most iconic things to do:

Stay on a houseboat
Trek amongst the tea plantations
See a Kathakali dance show
Indulge in Ayurveda treatments
Take a Kerala cooking lesson and try coconut toddy
Watch a Theyyam ritual
Festivals – Indians love to party! Check out Kerala’s festival calendar here.

Check out these new articles showcasing some of my favourite experiences in Kerala:

48 Hours of Serenity – How to Visit Munroe Island, Kerala

How to See the Water Lilies at Malarikkal Village, Kerala

I Dream of Mangoes Cycling the backwaters trails of Kerala — Cycling the backwaters trails of Kerala

Crucial Realities When Visiting Kerala

There are only two issues that bother me when I am in Kerala. The first is litter; as with most of India, littering is so widely accepted by locals that most natural places are filled with it. It is something you just have to choose to turn a blind eye to, and hopefully, things will change for the better.

The second is dogs. Much of India has an exemplary attitude towards the treatment of street dogs, but for some reason, many people of Kerala (not all of them) do not have any love for strays. Some people are scared of Rabies, which is valid, but don’t seem to consider that well-fed dogs are easily caught to be sterilised and vaccinated, and are happy, fat, and less aggressive and territorial overall.

I have been reprimanded several times for feeding street dogs (to which I pay no notice) – but I really wish the people of Kerala could do better here. On a selfish note, it’s really hard to enjoy your holiday surrounded by starving and sick dogs and puppies, and on a grander scale, street dogs are PART OF THE COMMUNITY and should be treated as such.

I Dream of Mangoes volunteering with Kerala street dogs — Volunteering with Cherai Tails in Kerala

General Travel Advice for India (Visas + Health)

You can find all the detailed information you need on preparing for a trip to India in my guide: A pre-departure checklist for travelling in India – but read on to get the basics on visas you’ll need and healthcare concerns you need not have when planning independent travel in Kerala.

VISAS

The visa application process has been simplified A LOT over the last few years. When I first applied in 2013, everything had to be done in person, with extremely complicated forms, different fees depending on your nationality, and length of stay seemingly dished out at random.

This has now all been restructured, and can now all be done online. You can choose between a 1-month, 1-year or 5-year tourist visa (with multiple entries allowed and max. 90 or 180 days at a time.)

The current price for a 1-year tourist visa to India for UK citizens is $40 USD.

You can apply for your visa through the government website.

THE VISA STARTS THE DAY IT IS GRANTED – NOT THE DAY YOU ENTER!

Results come within 72 hours, so plan accordingly.

Be aware that you will have to upload a passport photo, but the dimensions are different to our UK version, so it may need a little editing.

It may come in handy to take spares of these photos; pre-chopped, on your travels. Depending on where you visit, you may be asked for photos to get permits to cross particular land borders, e.g. entering Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh

The first page of the India E-Visa Application

FOOD

This is a hot topic when people are researching for travelling to India! If you have a sensitive stomach, maybe give yourself a few days to acclimatise before you move on to trying street food.

I have always eaten food from small carts and have never been ill – but I know people who have had an upset stomach constantly. Most Hindus are vegetarian, so there are great options available if you want to avoid meat. You can get excellent fresh seafood in Karnataka, Goa and Kerala.

I Dream of Mangoes dosa Mysore — Dosa is a staple breakfast of South India and blimmin delicious

HEALTHCARE

If you do need it, Indian chemists, doctors, and A&Es have a very high standard. I’ve been in a few scrapes, and I’ve found the healthcare to be better than in the UK, as there are fewer wait times and it’s quite affordable. (Please bear in mind this may not be the case in more rural areas.)

For reference, an evening in A&E in Kerala with medication cost me £3. (I had a reaction to some seafood, but nothing serious.)

Thank you for reading my travel guide for independent travel in Kerala. If you enjoyed the read, please consider subscribing to my blog, where I post articles once per week filled with travel inspiration and stories from my adventures around the world.

Happy Travels! xx

Disclosure:

I Dream of Mangoes is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. That being said, I only link to products I use and love.

Hi, I'm Aimee!

I am the creator of I Dream of Mangoes, a vibrant and honest travel blog.

I hope these guides provide you with the practical information and inspiration you need to strap on your backpack and follow your curiosity into parts unknown!

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