The Complete Guide to Doing a Divemaster in Utila
This year I did my Divemaster course in Utila, a small island off the coast of Honduras famous for its world-class scuba diving.
If you're thinking of doing the same, then this Utila travel guide is for you. I will tell you all about my Divemaster experience on Utila, including the top dive sites, the best restaurants, how much I budgeted for a month on Utila, my favourite non-diving things to do, as well as other practical information you may need to plan for your scuba internship in Honduras.
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About Utila
Utila, a small island off the northern coast of Honduras, is a tropical haven known for its relaxed vibe and crystal-clear waters. It is one of the Bay Islands, which make up 8 islands and 53 small cays located about 40 miles from the mainland.
Utila is the smallest Bay Island and is home to around 4,000 people. Many are descendants of the Garifuna people, who are the descendants of the African survivors of human cargo ships that were wrecked off the island of St Vincent during the peak of the trans-Atlantic slave trade. Then, in April 1797, over 5,000 ‘Black Caribs’ (Garifuna) were transported on British ships and abandoned on the deserted Honduran Bay Islands.
Utila is part of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, also called The Great Mayan Reef, so you can imagine why this area is famous for its world-class scuba diving.
The island has laid-back charm, with simple accommodations, cosy beach bars, and a welcoming local culture. On Utila, you won’t find high-rises, fast food outlets, or annoying touts - instead, you'll find a real community with a mix of Caribbean and Honduran influences, warm turquoise waters, and some amazing dive sites.
Most tourists in Utila are divers, and as it is one of the cheapest places to dive in the world there is a thriving backpacker scuba crowd. Many stay near Utila Town, in the southeast corner of the island. If you’re staying near Main Street, you can mostly get around on foot, but if you'd like to explore Utila you can get around by golf cart, moped, ATV or TukTuk (there are no cars on the island).
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Getting to Utila
Flying to Utila
Direct Flights
Utila has a small airport with regular flights from Roatan, San Pedro Sula, and La Ceiba. These flights are usually on small planes and can be booked through local airlines.
Roatan’s International Airport
If flying internationally, you’ll likely arrive at Roatan’s international airport. It has flights from major cities like Atlanta, Miami, Houston, Toronto, and El Salvador. From Roatan, you can take a ferry or a short flight to Utila. I always check prices on Skyscanner then click through and book with the airline.
Ferry Options
Roatan to Utila
The ferry departs from Roatan daily at 10:20 AM and takes an hour to get to Utila. It returns at 2:00 PM (2:15 PM on Saturdays). It’s a scenic and cost-effective way to travel between the islands (around £25).
La Ceiba to Utila
There’s also a ferry service to and from La Ceiba on the mainland. You can find the timetable here
Not sure what to pack for an adventure in Honduras? Check out my article:
Logistics and Practical Information
Visas
When I visited Honduras, I did not need a visa, however, from August 2024, British nationals must have a visa to enter Honduras. This was introduced in retaliation for Britain imposing a visa requirement last year on Honduran nationals entering the UK.
This has to be done at the Honduran Embassy and seems to be $30-$60 depending. Apparently, this is a temporary measure until the UK-Honduran relationship is 'normalised'.
Visas for Honduras are not needed for citizens of 117 countries, so do check your specs.
Language
The official language is Spanish, but English is widely spoken, especially in tourist areas. You won’t have much trouble communicating in English but learning a few basic Spanish phrases can enhance your experience.
Currency
Both US Dollars (USD) and Honduran Lempira (HNL) are accepted. However, paying in Lempira often gives you a better exchange rate. Currently, 1 GBP is 33 HNL.
ATMs
There are two ATMs on the island, but they frequently run out of cash, especially on weekends or holidays. It’s advisable to bring enough cash or withdraw early in your stay to avoid inconveniences.
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Electricity For Long-Term Stays
If you stay for a month or more, note that electricity is not usually included in rent. To pay for electricity, visit the local electricity company located behind the main street.
You’ll need to make a minimum payment of 500 Lempira, which usually lasts about four weeks if you’re not using air conditioning (AC) extensively. The process involves entering a code into your apartment’s electricity meter to activate your credit. As with most islands don’t be surprised by power cuts!
Health
There is a medical centre in Utila Town and it is easy to drop in if you need something, although they mainly do certificates for diving. There is also a little pharmacy section in Bush's Market.
The only Hyperbaric Chamber on the entire island is onsite at Utila Lodge. The Hyperbaric Chamber and Trauma Center serve Utila Lodge guests and members of the community. Should anyone on the island suffer from decompression sickness, this is where they will be treated.
For travel insurance, I have put my trust in Safety Wing, and I use their 4-week rolling policy as it is affordable and covers almost every country. They have been great so far!
Scuba Diving in Utila
Utila is renowned globally for its exceptional diving, often considered some of the best in the world, and there are 90 official dive sites around the island.
Most of the dive shops and activities in Utila are concentrated on the south coast of the island. While the southern dive sites are fantastic, they can start to feel repetitive after a while, especially if you’re there for an extended period. The northern dive sites offer different topographies and marine life, but they are less frequently visited, possibly due to the longer travel times and higher fuel costs for the boats.
Dive Shops
Choosing the right dive shop can significantly affect your diving experience. Some shops focus more on training and stick to the southern sites, while others are more adventurous and might take you to the northern sites if conditions and logistics allow. Of the 8 PADI-authorised dive shops in Utilla, I chose Utila Dive Center because they are a 5* centre and they offer you free diving for life if you do your Divemaster with them.
Weather and Seasons
The best diving conditions are typically from March to May and August to October when the seas are calmer, and visibility is at its peak.
Whale shark sightings are supposedly more common between March and April and again from August to September. However, there were no whale shark sightings the whole time I was in Utila in April, and I got the impression that the title of Whale Shark capital of the world doesn’t hold anymore and hasn’t for almost two years.
My Divemaster Experience in Utila
My Divemaster training at Utila Dive Centre was an amazing experience and I felt like the course was totally worth it, in terms of the quality of the teaching and the amount of diving experience I gained.
As the course comes with free scuba diving for life, in theory, you can stretch out your Divemaster for as long as you like but most people stay for 4-6 weeks.
The first two weeks of the Divemaster were very structured, with workshops and theory sessions covering the basics and core Divemaster skills, like diving techniques, boat workshop, using a dSMB, and theory comprehension.
After the initial training, the course offers more freedom to squeeze in free dives and explore other learning opportunities on your terms.
As a Divemaster trainee, you might find yourself often assisting at beginner-friendly sites, which are generally located closer to the dive shops on the south coast.
The Divemaster workshops, assisting on courses, and the skill circuit were a great introduction to both the teaching and practical side of diving. The choice of an extra speciality, like Adaptive Diver, Tec Support Diver, and Coral Nursery, added a lot of variety and gave me exposure to areas I might want to dive into (no pun intended) later on.
Being a large dive centre, Utila Dive Center definitely provided the social environment I was looking for, however, with so many interns, it sometimes felt a tad overcrowded. (Never in the water but out of it.) The volume of people made it harder to get individual guidance. But the upside was a great mix of people at different stages of training, which created a supportive learning environment.
The daily routine of diving came with both perks and challenges. The physical demands, especially with heavy tanks and setting up equipment, sometimes felt repetitive and exhausting. And, of course, there were moments working with beginner divers that required patience. But the ultimate reward was the improvement in my skills, as well as the lifetime free diving perk from UDC, a definite bonus I’ll be taking advantage of on future trips to the Caribbean.
In terms of packing, you must have the following for your divemaster:
DSMB and reel
Dive computer
Fins
Mask and Snorkel
Wetsuit, slate/pencil and dive torch were useful but not essential
Top Dive Sites in Utila
Black Coral Wall
Black Coral Wall is one of the most celebrated dive sites in Utila, known for its dramatic underwater topography. The wall is covered in vibrant black coral and offers an impressive vertical drop-off.
You can expect to see a variety of marine life, including large groupers, moray eels, and sometimes even eagle rays. The wall provides excellent opportunities for deep diving and underwater photography, with visibility often exceeding 30 meters. It's a must-dive for your visit to the island.
Labyrinth
True to its name, Labyrinth is a complex dive site with a network of swim-throughs and tunnels. It’s a larger site, allowing divers to explore various paths and routes, each offering something new to see. The swim-throughs are spacious, making them accessible even for less experienced divers who want to try something a bit more adventurous.
The coral formations are stunning, and the site is teeming with life, from small reef fish to larger pelagics. During a safety stop here, is where I had my closest encounter with a Spotted Eagle ray, gliding within arm’s length – uncaring of our presence.
Halliburton Wreck
The Halliburton Wreck, also known simply as "The Halli," is a 30-meter cargo ship that was deliberately sunk in 1998 to create an artificial reef. It’s now one of the most popular dive sites in Utila, particularly for those interested in wreck diving.
The wreck sits upright on the seabed, with the hull at around 30 meters and the deck at about 15 meters. The dive begins with a descent through a startling blue expanse, with the wreck gradually coming into view. The wheelhouse is a favourite spot for divers to explore, and you’ll often find quirky items left by previous visitors as tributes to the wreck. The Halli is also home to a variety of marine life, including barracudas, groupers, and sometimes even nurse sharks.
The Best Restaurants on Utila
The Point
The Point isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a social hub on Utila. With a swimming pool that overlooks the ocean, it’s an ideal place where you can spend a lazy afternoon. The menu features a variety of dishes, but their burgers are particularly famous, often cited as the best on the island. The relaxed vibe, combined with good food and drinks, makes it a great place to meet other travellers or simply unwind after a day of activities.
Mama Rosa’s
Mama Rosa’s is known for its affordable and delicious Baleadas, a traditional Honduran dish made with a flour tortilla filled with beans, cheese, and other ingredients like eggs, avocado, or meat. The restaurant is a go-to spot for locals and visitors alike, especially for those looking for a quick and satisfying meal at a cheap price. It's reliably open and in the centre of the main street, and is well-known as one of the best places to eat on Utila.
Safety Stop
As the name suggests, Safety Stop is a diver’s hotspot (located at Utila Dive Centre), offering a relaxed spot for breakfast or lunch between dives. The menu includes a variety of comfort foods, with chicken tenders being my favourite dish. It’s a casual place where you can chat about your dive stories.
Mermaid’s
Mermaids has an American cafeteria-style setup, where you can choose from various components to build your meal. This makes it a versatile spot for lunch, whether you want something light or a more substantial meal with something for everyone, and for me, it turned out the be one of the best restaurants on Utila.
Pink Flamingo
Don’t be fooled by its modest appearance from the road; Pink Flamingo is a hidden gem. The restaurant is vegan-friendly, offering items like oat milk, smoothie bowls, and unique teas. The seating area includes swinging chairs that overlook the water, providing a serene setting for breakfast or brunch. When the temperature rises, you can take a refreshing dip in the water directly from the dock. It's a peaceful spot to enjoy some delicious pancakes.
RJ’s
RJ’s is a bit pricier compared to other local spots, but still very affordable by international standards. The restaurant is open only a few days a week, which makes it a special treat when you can catch it open.
The Pelican, La Casita and Pizza Nut are also great food options!
My Favourite Non-Diving Activities in Utila
Jasper’s Utila Animal Shelter
Jasper’s is a volunteer-run animal shelter that cares for dogs and cats. Visitors are welcome to help by taking the dogs out for walks or spending time with the animals to help socialise them, making them more adoptable. If you’re looking for a more extended experience, you can take one of the dogs out for a day, allowing them to explore the beaches or other parts of the island. It's a heartwarming way to spend your morning or late afternoon while contributing to a good cause.
Observation Tower at Pumpkin Hill
The Observation Tower at Pumpkin Hill is an old structure that offers the best panoramic views on the island. The short hike to the tower is relatively easy, making it accessible to most visitors. The view from the top, especially during the golden hour (sunrise or sunset), provides a stunning 360-degree view of the island, including the lush green forests, the surrounding ocean, and the distant mainland. It's a peaceful spot to take in the natural beauty of Utila.
Water Cay
Water Cay is a small, uninhabited island that’s about a 20–30-minute boat ride from Utila. It’s a popular day trip destination for both locals and tourists. You’ll see boat operators on the main street of Utila advertising trips to Water Cay daily. The cost is generally around $20 USD for a round trip, with the boat leaving in the morning and returning after about four hours. On Water Cay, you can enjoy pristine white sandy beaches, crystal-clear waters, and great snorkelling opportunities. It’s a perfect spot for a picnic, swimming, or simply relaxing in the sun.
My Budget for Doing a Divemaster in Utila
(All prices in USD)
The Divemaster Course
My divemaster course with Utila Dive Center cost $1290 and I spent around $600 on other additional courses (deep, nitrox, side-mount etc) which you get at a discounted rate when doing your Divemaster.
Travel Costs
Return Flight (London to Roatan): Approximately $900
Return Ferry (Roatan to Utila): Around $60
Accommodation
My fully furnished studio apartment at the Sea Eye cost around $375 USD monthly. This included WIFI. For a ‘holiday’ a lot of the dive centres offer packages (ie 5 nights in a dorm and 10 dives for $375). If you already have a dive internship in mind, they can often help you with accommodation suggestions.
Electricity
About $30 per month if you’re not using AC. Costs can increase significantly if you use AC frequently, especially during the hotter months.
Food
Eating In: If you’re cooking at home, groceries can be affordable especially in-season ingredients but there are limited options – check out Bush’s for your necessities.
Eating Out: Utila offers a range of dining options, from budget-friendly local eateries to more upscale restaurants. Budget around $3-15 per meal depending on where and what you eat.
Solo Female Travel in Utila
At no point during my travels in Utila and Roatan did I feel uncomfortable or unsafe. These are particularly popular islands (while not feeling ‘busy’) and are for what I consider ‘targeted travel’ (i.e. you travel there for a specific activity/site). Most of the friends I made were also solo travellers from all over the world.
Final Musings
When I started my Divemaster internship on Utila, my main goal was to improve my skills and become a more confident diver, rather than outright aiming to work in the dive industry. I wanted the chance to dive every day, really get to know the dive sites, and become more comfortable underwater.
Throughout the course at Utila Dive Center, the daily diving, guiding, and handling of different underwater scenarios definitely helped me achieve that. I’ve found that my in-water confidence has improved a lot, even though I still have plenty to learn about boat operations and the ins and outs of various gear.
Choosing to take additional specialities, like Sidemount, Deep, and Enriched Air Diving, was a great decision—it expanded my technical knowledge and opened up more options for future dives.
What's better yet, is that I achieved all my diving goals in paradise. Utila really is an awesome place to do your Divemaster, it's beautiful, the dive sites are glorious, the social vibe is really nice, and you can keep everything fairly low-budget.
What are you waiting for?!
Thank you for reading my guide: The Complete Guide to Doing a Divemaster on Utila!
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Britani Bryce
GUEST WRITER
NZ, Pacific & All Things Ocean
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